Volcano livin' on Sumatra Island

Indonesia has 147 volcanoes. For the past week, we’ve been living amidst some of them.

North Sumatra, Indonesia is the specific part of this vast, beautiful, and populous archipelagic nation where the Earth Vagabonds are currently wandering — with my mom, Diane, still tagging along as she avoids winter in North America.

A week ago mom, wife Ellen, and myself spent two unforgettable days trekking and observing wild (and semi-wild) orangutans in the sweaty jungles of the Gunung Leuser National Park near Bukit Lawang. Now we’ve moved to nearly mile-high elevations near some of Sumatra’s best known volcanoes.

First, Berastagi, Sumatera Utara. The transit from Bukit Lawang to Berastagi can take anywhere from a few hours to a couple days — depending on the transport you desire in this rugged developing area. We decided to take the ‘easy way’ and pay about $80 for a comfortable, scenic, four-hour, private car ride.

Such transit is treat for us “budget slow travelers”; but it becomes cost effective for three people and luggage, where roads and bus schedules – and English – are unreliable, and the weather seems to change by the minute.

Besides, the added transport costs can be balanced by very reasonable hotel room rates. In our experience, $10 to $15 gets you a basic double room with private bath anywhere in Sumatra. Similarly, meals at many restaurants are $3 to $4. Tasty 630ml bottles of Bintang beer cost 50 to 60 Indonesian Rupiah ($3 – $3.75) each.

We’ve been to Indonesia before; Bali and Komodo in 2019. But the only time we’ve ever really lived under – and on top of – volcanoes was in Guatemala in 2017. In many ways, our Sumatra adventure reminds us of those months in Antigua and Lake Atitlan, Guatemala: the altitude, the climate, the shocking beauty and power of nature, the coffee, the welcoming people who speak very little English but seem bemused by us pale-skinned tourists.

In Berastagi, a hike up the dormant (but still steaming) Sibayak volcano put us inside the hissing, sulfur-spewing caldera. Unfortunately, only mom and I made it all the way. Ellen had knee pain and turned back about half way. She missed the other-worldly, gassy landscape and incredible views. (Park admission: $1.25 per person/overnight camping available too).

But back down below, we all enjoyed the numerous natural hot spring resorts at the base of Sibayak. For less than $2 per person for all afternoon, we had our choice of tubs and temperatures. Nice facilities, very few other customers, cheap snacks, great views; a must-do in Berastagi. And just 50 cents for the 20-minute ride via local mini-buses from the town center to the hot springs.

After Berastagi, more and bigger volcanoes. Another private car ride (two hours/$35) brought us to the largest caldera lake in the world – Lake Toba.

Approximately 74,000 years ago a super-volcano eruption here (actually four linked volcanoes) darkened skies and lowered temperatures around the earth by an estimated 5°F. As much as 1,700 cubic miles of pyroclastic material was ejected. The combined craters formed Lake Toba – Indonesia’s largest lake (60 by 20 miles).

We are currently staying on a ‘lava-dome’ island in the middle called Samosir. A small peninsula known as Tuk Tuk is crowded with small idyllic touristic accommodations. The lake water is an emerald green, deep (1,500 feet), fairly clean, and refreshing to swim in. The view from our cheap hotel balcony (Laster Jony’s) is enchanting.

Before arriving here, we stayed a couple nights on the northernmost rim of the Lake Toba caldera. The photos barely capture the grandeur of the setting. We splurged ($65 per night) for a cabin at the Loken Resort, which was walking distance from the Sipiso Piso waterfall – an incredibly gorgeous and easy to access attraction, cascading 400 feet into a misty gorge.

Even with her wonky knee, Ellen was able to negotiate the 650+ steps on the 45-minute walking path that leads to the ‘lower falls’ area. At 80-some-years-young, mom too had no problem with the leisurely afternoon descent/ascent. I myself just had to get up close. Wearing a rain poncho I struggled into the maelstrom around the ‘splash zone’. Wow!

Getting from the waterfall/resort to Samosir Island proved a little challenging. We could have taken two connecting local buses; travel time four to five hours. But with upset stomachs, and without other options, I had to offer 1 million Rupiah ($67) to secure another private car hire for the scenic lakeside drive (2.5 hours) through rain showers directly to the ferry boat crossing to our Tuk Tuk hotel rooms.

Once again, the price of the rooms and meals will make up for the excessive taxi fare. It’s a trade-off we will likely continue to make through our remaining weeks exploring Sumatra. Next up: beaches and snorkeling in the area of the 2004 tsunami disaster. For now, livin’ easy on the volcanoes.

As always, be thankful and generous. Happy trails & more beer.

Life is NOW!

Thanks for reading, “Volcano livin’ on Sumatra Island.”

About Theo

Theo (also called Tedly) retired early from the news business to wander the planet with his wife, Ellen. He enjoys exploring all Earth has to offer from jungles and beaches to volcanoes and deserts, always drinking beer along the way.