Som Tum Mumuang, aka Mango Salad

It’s mango season! Mmmmm… I love saying that!

Here in Malaysia, that means I am eating fresh, spicy, raw, green mango salads nearly every day. (Ripe mangoes are good too. But I’m crazy for green mango!)

The photos below show my favorite fiery food and the restaurant I’ve been enjoying most of them at in Kuantan, Malaysia; Nurul Restaurant. That’s Nurul (a family name) pictured with me. She’s only 23 years old, but a sensational salad maker!)

Kuantan is a small city on the eastern shore of central Malaysia. We came here so my wife could attend a meditation retreat in the area. While Ellen was zoning out I was munching many marvelous mouth-burning mango mixtures — with my mom, who is still visiting us for a couple more days.

Shredded green mango, red chili peppers, tomatoes, onions, green beans, roasted peanuts, fish sauce, lime, dried shrimps – anchovies too… all mashed together… maybe a little brown sugar; Nurul’s family recipe. Mmmmmmm! (Here’s a link to MY own recipe — posted from the Philippines during the Covid crisis.)

Of course, Nurul – and the other coastal restaurants here – also serve raw (unripe) papaya salad; Som Tum, as it is known in Thailand. I enjoy the papaya version almost as much as Mamuang (mango). But because papaya grows seemingly year-round, those salads can be had anytime. Mango – only in season. Now mango!

Green mango and papaya salads are something I only discovered upon coming to Southeast Asia in 2018. And I am nuts about both of them – even though the red-hot spice tears my eyes and sometimes tears-up my tummy. I wish I had one right now!

Of course, Thai restaurants the world over make Som Tum and Som Tum Mamuang. But living in Cleveland, Ohio, USA all my life, I never tried it. Further, although the fruits are grown in tropical nations around the globe, surprisingly, other cultures just don’t make the same kind of salads. 

Despite years spent in Mexico and Central America, I never saw any zesty, sweet-‘n-sour, unripe fruit salads. Same in India, Indonesia, and Philippines. I’ve specifically asked for raw papaya or mango salad in these places and hardly anybody knew what I was talking about. Strange. And unfortunate. They are missing out. (We did sometimes peel and eat sliced green mangoes with salt while drinking beers in the Philippines.)

According to my quick research, Som Tum is believed to have originated in Laos. Some call it the Laotian national food. We’ve never been to Laos, but Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Myanmar also make versions. While in Bodh Gaya, India, a couple years ago, I ate fantastic raw papaya salads every day at a Burmese (Myanmar) restaurant in the famous Indian town known for its Buddhist history and attractions.

Thankfully, our current area of Malaysia is heavily influenced by Thai food styles. Many restaurants advertise Tomyam soup (Thai hot & sour) on their signs. I do often get Tomyam and rice after a mango salad to make a full meal. Delicious!

What’s more, the price is right. Mango or papaya salad at Nurul’s costs 8 Malaysian Ringgit ($1.80)! Often, I order a double portion – $3.60. What a deal! Main dishes; Tomyam or chicken/seafood fried rice or noodles cost about the same price. Add a $1 iced tea. My total dinner is under $7. A steal! And sooooo fresh, tasty, healthy, spicy and… cleansing.

The negative about the salads here in the predominantly Muslim area of Kuantan is that the restaurants do not serve beer. And as I’ve told Nurul straight out; a burning hot Som Tum salad just isn’t quite complete without a big, ice cold beer to wash it down. For the record, beer is sold at grocery stores and I could probably sneak my own into Nurul’s place (or get the salad to go). But out of respect for Nurul and the local culture I stick with tea.

The best news; I will enjoy Nurul’s Som Tum salads for one more week — then we are off to Thailand for a month. And there, you will find me consuming many many more Yum Mumuang as the mango season extends for a couple more months. Plus, in Thailand every salad will be accompanied by a large, cold Chang or Leo or Singha beer — or two, or three. Happy Thai New Year, by the way! (Songkran spans April 13 to 16, 2025.)

My advice, wherever you are, get to a Thai restaurant immediately. Order a Som Tum salad with beer. It’s mango season – and new year!

As always, be thankful and generous. Happy trails & more beer. Cheers!

Life is NOW!

Thanks for reading, “Som Tum Mumuang, aka Mango Salad.”

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