Ramadan at the End of the Earth

The haunting and harmonious prayers cut through the hot and humid night. Arabic wails from eight or ten or twelve distant mosques carried on the winds until the wee hours. The speakers on high volume during Ramadan.

We’ve lived many months in Muslim nations: Turkey, Morocco, Malaysia, Albania, UAE — but Banda Aceh, Indonesia felt different to us budget slow travelers.

In fact, the Aceh province is the most Muslim in all of Indonesia; 98.6%. (Indonesia as a whole 87%.) And the holy month of Ramadan is strictly observed.

Practicing Muslims are forbidden to eat or drink anything (even water) between sunrise and sunset. In addition to fasting, they are expected to pray and study the Quran.

As a result, most businesses are closed during daylight hours. There are no customers. Very few people are out and about. It feels deserted (except at the mosques). For non-Muslim tourists like us, it was kind of spooky and surreal.

Adding to the odd vibe is the fact that Aceh was ground zero for the tsunami disaster of December 26, 2004. An estimated 130,000 people were dead or missing after waves of water 20 feet high, triggered by a 9.1 magnitude earthquake in the Indian Ocean, wiped out Banda Aceh and the surrounding area and islands. Today, 300,000 people live on this rebuilt tip of northernmost Sumatra.

Fortunately, even during Ramadan, enough services are available to make visiting Aceh and surrounds possible and pleasant. It might even be the very best time. No crowds. No bustle. Plenty of vacancies. Rock bottom prices. And the open businesses were very happy to have us. (You just need to be flexible regarding meals.)

My mother, Diane, is still with us on her annual winter getaway. We all took a day-long Banda Aceh tour on a tuktuk (motorcycle with large sidecar); 3 people / $15. Our driver knew well the “tsunami sights”. Included were stops at huge boats which were carried inland by the deadly tsunami swells and deposited on houses, in yards, and across roads — where they remain today as reminders and memorials to that tragic day.

Other memorials are more “official”. Artistic monuments to those lost, photographs, lists of names, the shocking numbers, and stories of the recovery made possible by donations from around the world — including USAID.

Unfortunately, the Tsunami Museum was closed on Friday and a secondary museum also shuttered during Ramadan. But we did visit the stunning ‘Tsunami Mosque’ – pictured below – with a small historical display. Located on the outskirts of the city, it was the only building left standing for miles after the water receded.

The beach nearby — still popular with western surfers — was gorgeous and deserted. With afternoon prayer call in the air, the idea of the beautiful water rising up and stealing so many lives was hard to fathom.

Offshore of Banda Aceh is Weh Island (and a few others). We spent the week before our Aceh visit enjoying some of the most mesmerizing terrain imaginable on Weh. Jungles, mountains, steaming volcanic vents, beaches, world-class snorkeling and diving, and fabulous rustic resorts at amazing low prices (think $15 – $25 per night!). Again, much of it closed and vacant due to Ramadan — but an unforgettable feast for us!

Weh Island is reminiscent of Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula back around 2000. Rugged, rural, raw, natural, native, unspoiled, and poor… but a paradise for anyone making the effort to get to this literal ‘end of the earth’.

Here on Weh there was immense destruction and death in the tsunami. And here too, today’s survivors and rebuilders were extremely kind and caring; catering to us during their most holy of religious times.

Some of our favorite places on Weh Island include: the Pasir Putih area, the Jaboi volcano, Coco Jungle Guest House, Sabang City, Gapang Beach, Secret Beach, Ibioh Beach. And we loved Pele’s Place Bungalows near Ibioh.

In closing, visiting Aceh — and Sumatra, Indonesia in general — during Ramadan was a unique and ‘accidental’ experience. As non-Muslims, March seemed as good a time as any to see some of the most inaccessible, wild, and unforgettable places in Southeast Asia. Turns out, it was pretty easily done and Ramadan was a great time to do it.

Final Ramadan note: while Ramadan is an extraordinarily slow/deserted period in Sumatra — the weeks immediately AFTER Ramadan are extremely busy and hectic. We were told crowds and prices explode once the Ramadan fasting month is over. We will certainly be more aware of all the dates involved in the future.

Coming soon, the budget breakdown of our amazing month-long visit to Sumatra, Indonesia.

As always, be thankful and generous. Happy trails & more beer!

Life is NOW!

Thanks for reading, “Ramadan at the End of the Earth.”

About Theo

Tedly (Theo) retired early from the news business to wander the planet with wife Ellen. He enjoys exploring all Earth has to offer: jungles and beaches, volcanoes and deserts – always drinking beer along the way.