Fukuoka to Busan by ferry — finally

The climate has caught up with us. We’ve been delayed. Our ferry boat canceled. A typhoon terrorizing Japan.

Perhaps surprisingly, it’s the first weather-related delay we’ve ever had.

Of course, during our nearly nine years of vagabonding around the earth, our travel schedule has been interrupted before.

Last fall, the war in Gaza caused us to cancel a planned five-month meander around Israel, Jordan, and Egypt. We went back to India instead.

In 2020, Coronavirus stranded us (by choice) in the Philippines. Our one month lockdown turned into a 26-month adventure.

And one time in Oaxaca, Mexico in mid-2017, an earthquake prevented us from an overnight side-trip deep into the ‘magic mushroom’ mountains.

But now, as we were finishing our seven-week stay in Japan, Typhoon Shanshan decided to waylay us. We ended up stuck in Fukuoka — the departure point for the daily, six-hour, ferry boat to Busan, South Korea.

The good news: we were safe and dry as we watched the periods of torrential rain. And the storm soon veered east, as predicted, sparing our area from a direct hit.

The bad: our Airbnb could not extend our stay – it was already booked. So we spent a couple hundred bucks for two nights in a ‘last-minute’ hotel room, Uber rides, and food delivery. All the while, our pre-paid Airbnb sat empty in Busan.

We visited the ferry boat company offices at the port when we first heard of the approaching storm. By then the service had already stopped. Had we been more attuned to the longer-range forecast, we might have moved up our departure. At the office, they assured us the voyages would begin again in two days.

Despite the rains, we did venture out in central Fukuoka during our delay. We donned our rain ponchos and dashed to the Tenjin Chikagai “underground mall”; a huge new shopping complex, which connects various subway lines and downtown buildings. Very nice! Unfortunately everything was closed due to the weather emergency.

Back outside, we witnessed the most intense rainbow I’ve ever seen as stormy pink skies churned all around us. Thankfully, the conditions improved thereafter, as predicted, and the ferry service started again.

Fukuoka to Busan by ferry — finally

PART 2  — The Camellia Ferry Line

I bought the tickets for the Fukuoka/Hakata, Japan to Busan, Korea sea crossing months in advance. The two nations are about 200 kilometers apart at their closest. An internet search confirmed there was indeed a public ferry.

Fearing a sellout on the day we wanted to travel, I navigated the Camellia Line website —  which has minimal English — and purchased two advance tickets with a U.S. credit card. My capacity concerns seem unwarranted. Even after two days of suspended service, there were people buying same-day tickets when we arrived at the port. And there appeared to be plenty of room on the big ship. A worker told me the capacity is 500.

Our two ‘economy class’ tickets cost 11,200 yen ($72). Included was a fold-up cushion, pillow, floor space, and storage shelf in a shared room of 10 passengers. We put our bags in the room and spent the voyage sitting in other ‘common areas’ of the vessel.

There are five levels on the boat. More costly, nicer, and private cabins are available on upper decks. There are lounge areas throughout the vessel and dining tables in a cafeteria. Large windows are everywhere. Numerous outdoor decks are located toward the stern.

Other amenities on board include: big TVs (in Japanese), game arcade, karaoke rooms, smoking chamber, microwave ovens & hot water for soup/ramen/drinks, even paid hot tubs with sea view. A small convenience store and vending machines provided only snack foods on the 12:30 p.m. daytime voyage. 

For the record, the ship does travel overnights from Busan to Fukuoka/Hakata. Dinner and breakfast meals are advertised for that trip. 

As for the trip, it was pleasant, comfortable, uneventful, fun, efficient, air conditioned (you might want a sweater). Recommended for travelers on a relaxed schedule or low budget – or both.

The trip was made under sunny blue skies. And I was somewhat surprised how calm the sea was immediately after a typhoon had passed. Honestly, the gentle rolling was no different than other lengthy ferry rides we’ve taken: Mazatlan, Mexico, to La Paz, Mexico, and Ancona, Italy to Split, Croatia.

In summary, our first travel weather delay was about as easy as possible. Heck, everyday air travel headaches seem more common and far worse these days. Sadly, Japan did report fatalities related to Typhoon Shanshan. And whether it’s the climate or wars or disease or terrorism or economic strife or political instability, in our opinion, future travel is unlikely to get easier or cheaper. We continue to urge people to travel now! Life is now!

As always, be thankful and generous, happy trails & more beer.

Life is NOW!

Thanks for reading, “Fukuoka to Busan by ferry — finally.”

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