Escape from reality: 5 Breathtaking views on a budget in Sumatra

Five places in Indonesia helped me (almost) forget the End of the American Empire. They all offer breathtaking views on a budget in Sumatra.

Much of northern Sumatra Island is wild with jungles and volcanoes and coral reefs. Three of these views were so beautiful to experience in real life, that they brought me to tears.

As I have said for nearly 10 years (!): travel now, because LIFE IS NOW.

5 Breathtaking views on a budget in Sumatra

These are in the order of our short stays, not in the order of my favorites as slow travel stops. We normally stay a month or longer at places we visit. But we are ‘fast traveling’ with spouse Theo’s mom Diane. However, I foresee a future with return visits to some of these extraordinary places.

Bukit Lawang

The first time Sumatra brought me to tears was during my first wild and semi-wild orangutan sighting in the Gunung Leuser National Park near the village of Bukit Lawang.

You must be fit to have the best chance of viewing orangutans in their element. It’s a two-day jungle hike with camping in basic conditions. (An entire post devoted to this can be found here.)

If you’re not too active, the quaint village of Bukit Lawang is peaceful and interesting. It’s still adventurous with distinctive pedestrian cable bridges, two rivers with swimming spots, easy walking trails, a bat cave, shopping (to support the local economy) and more.

Where we stayed and what it cost

Family Fun Guest House; $7 per night for a basic room – no hot water or AC. The attached restaurant is run by the owner Putra’s wife Maya, who is an amazing cook! She’ll also make sure you have everything you need, including laundry service.

If you need more comfort, you could stay elsewhere and still hike with Putra. We recommend him that much.

Also, Putra’s new hotel with more amenities just outside of Bukit Lawang is scheduled to open by the end of 2025.

Tonggin on Lake Toba

Lake Toba is Earth’s oldest volcanic lake. This was our view from the northern end.

Isn’t that so sweet? Those cliffs in the distance are ancient lava domes that ring the lake.

One of Indonesia’s tallest plunge waterfalls is within walking distance from where we stayed. The base of Sipiso-piso is 651 steps down. When you climb back up, look for the small family-run restaurant with the view to the south.

Where we stayed and what it cost

We stayed in a small cottage at Loken Resort, and they go for $50 a night It included hot water, AC, a TV, kettle, toiletries.

Staff do not speak much – if any – English, and there are zero vegetarian options on the menu, but omelettes are possible any time of day.

Samosir Island

Samosir Island brought me to tears for breathtaking views from our guest house!

The island is in the middle of Lake Toba, which is not badly polluted. Swims were pleasant, unlike Lake Atitlan in Guatemala, or Lake Chapala in Mexico.

We rented a motorbike one day to explore more of Samosir Island outside of our ‘neighborhood’ and discovered it’s truly a special place with incredible views everywhere.

Those who enjoy ‘magic mushrooms’ will find plenty of options in the Tuk-tuk neighborhood. It’s technically illegal to take psilocin in Indonesia, but obviously the locals have worked something out, because signs promote sales everywhere.

Where we stayed and what it cost

We stayed at Lasterjony’s Guest House in the Tuk-tuk area. Hamlet and his family are wonderful. Our basic double room with private back porch and hot water was $10. Single rooms are cheaper at $7. There’s no AC, but temperatures are a little cooler at an elevation of about 3,000. (Also, we had an electric fan we bought at our previous stop in Berastagi, so that helped.)

Lasterjony’s Restaurant served great food from an extensive menu, with generous portions and reasonable prices.

Weh Island, south side

This breathtaking view filled me with contentment and peace – and sometimes amusement when monkeys frolicked in the nearby coconut trees.

A short walk down to the sea has great snorkeling! One day I was at the water for more than three hours and I never saw another person – only plenty of exotic tropical fish and a few maxima clams. On that same tract, there’s no Wi-Fi here, and my Indonesian tourist SIM with the most connected service available hardly worked in this area.

While I was in the sea a few days here, Theo and mom Diane went on a volcano hike to see boiling mud and steam vents, and they also took a tuktuk ride into Sabang ‘city’ 30 minutes away.

Where we stayed and what it cost

Coco Jungle Guest House cottages cost $14. They have AC, are thoughtfully designed with porches. There’s no hot water, but it’s not needed. There is an infinity pool over the cottages (pictured above), and a common area atop the kitchen with more gorgeous views. Philippe and his wife Riza are wonderful hosts.

We ate here for almost all meals. True, there’s not much else around within walking distance, but also true: Philippe and Riza are excellent cooks. Delicious dinners ran around $4.25 for everything including juices and fruit desserts.

Weh Island, north side

Theo brought me into our small cottage rental and I burst into tears with happiness over its waterfront location.

Just look at that view from the bed! What’s more: in that water right off the porch is fantastic snorkeling! We saw things we’ve never seen before – all literally steps away from where we slept – and ate!

The awesome restaurant is on a deck over the water. I recommend the semur (an Indonesian dish with special sauce; vegetarian versions have tempe and tofu).

Where we stayed and what it cost

The waterfront cottage at Peles Place cost $24 and came with hot water, AC, small fridge, kettle, comfy bed, mosquito net. Cottages a short way up a hillside cost less, around $19; they still have a good view.

A village with many dive shops is within walking distance. The famous Gapang Beach is an hour’s walk, or you might arrange a tuktuk ride with Peles friendly, helpful staff.

*Note, the north side of Weh Island is better known for better snorkeling, but as I mentioned in Coco’s review, the south side was worth it, if you prefer isolated coves.

Getting to these locations

Part of the charm of all these places: they’re not exactly easy to reach. That probably keeps most tourists away. Public transport is basic. ‘Buses’ are small– sometimes they’re actually vans.

Make sure you have plenty of time. It can take 24 hours to go a couple hundred miles.

For example, from Samosir to Weh, we used public transportation, and it took 24 hours. The itinerary: morning ferry from Tuk-tuk to Parapat, a small bus from Parapat to Medan, an overnight bus from Medan to Banda Aceh, a taxi / Grab from the bus station to the ‘slow’ two-hour-long ferry to Weh Island. Total cost for that travel: $32 per person.

Private drivers save time. You might spend up to $100 for a four-hour drive in comfort, but for us it was worth it, especially considering the low cost of accommodations and food.

Guest houses can usually help arrange private drivers.

When to go

Now. Just go now.

Seriously, we went during the month of Ramadan. As a predominantly Muslim nation, many restaurants and shops were closed because Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset during the holy month Ramadan, which is a time for reflection and prayer.

However, we found that to be acceptable as a tradeoff for fewer tourists. Also, all of our rentals were open for business and they served us food.

I will note the highlands around Lake Toba (and around Berastagi) are predominantly Christian, so most shops and restaurants were open.

Are you ready to escape reality?

Better have some adventures now, dear reader, because who knows how much longer budget slow travel will be this easy for Americans like us. How long will we be welcomed around the world??

You know what I’m going to say next, right? Of course you do. Say it with me: travel now, because LIFE IS NOW.

Thanks for reading, “Escape from reality: 5 Breathtaking views on a budget in Sumatra.”

About Ellen

Ellen and spouse Tedly started a budget slow travel lifestyle in 2015. She was diagnosed with early-stage breast cancer while traveling in Europe in 2018 through an annual mammogram. She had a double mastectomy in Croatia, recovered from surgery, and kept traveling.

As a recovered alcoholic, Ellen seeks out spiritual growth opportunities in a variety of ways during her travel life, including service work, volunteering, and the occasional silent meditation retreat.

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